Celiac Disease

The Eye Magazine rated this place as extraordinary, but the Toronto Life used to give it mixed reviews, before finally rating it one of Toronto’s Best New Restaurants in 2007. So Quince is one of the must-try places, being a Mediterranean-inspired bistro where prices are reasonable and meals are fresh and innovative. Placed just a couple blocks south of the busy intersection at Yonge and Eglinton, this new midtown digs was started in fall of 2006 by the husband and wife team consisting of Jennifer Gittins and Michael van den Winkel, once members of the high-valued Stork on the Roof.

Enclosed by a pretty patio graced with teak furniture and plenty of cushions in bright, primary colours, Quince is directly across the street from the abandoned hulk that was once Cheaters, an infamous nudie bar. Don’t be alarmed by the neon sign proclaiming “Adult video & Novelties” just two doors down from Quince and next to the famous place Coquine, however shocking it may seem in a neighbourhood touted for its thriving business district and family-friendly parks. But in the latest twenty-five years, there has always been an eclectic mix of places on this part of Yonge Street between Eglinton and Davisville. You may find pretty much anything, starting from clothing boutiques to bead and paper shops, home decor to adult places.

A hostess kindly greets us at Quince’s door and offers us a place close to the bar on low, cushioned banquettes. Even on a Saturday night and in this lively neighbourhood, we are offered a choice of tables, pleading excessive height. “What’s downstairs?” I ask. We get a reply from our hostess: “Oh, that’s our private dining room.” Available for lunch and dinner and offering its own bar and lounge, the pleasant space is elegantly decorated (though the tile floor is a tell that you’re in the basement). It’s off limits to couples tonight; the place is booked for corporate or private groups of diners up to 40 people and cocktail receptions of up to 70 people, where recommended menus are paired with matching wines so that all the details are taken care of.

Only a moment after we choose our table, a waiter arrives with a short list of specials. I want to say a short list of specials consisting of a long explanation of ingredients and preparation methods, and how the meals go together. We can see that the waiter is obviously an expert, he doesn’t even need to refer to his notebook as he tells us what is garnish vs. a side dish. Neat, friendly and efficient – that is how I would describe him. While I can’t make up my mind whether I should order a whole sea bream (“Most people eat a side with it, it’s just the fish,” our waiter cautions apologetically), we can look around a bit. Enhanced by smart lighting that adds nice warmth to the airy dining room, the space is deceptively large while maintaining a pleasant level of intimacy. I also appreciate the comfortable volume level – although nearly all the tables around us are full, we can still talk easily and listen to the background music – probably D’Angelo and Stevie Wonder. The loft-style exposed brick walls are decorated with modern art in earthy shades, adding balance to the exposed pipes painted in chocolate brown, probably not to look too sterile. Voyeurs will like the semi-open kitchen, offering a glimpse of the wood-fired oven behind the bar. If you want to see the rest of our review, see the full Quince restaurant review.

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